Essential reading for all Zejak puppy owners…
Before our puppies go to their new homes, we provide a ‘Puppy Pack’ to go with them.
All our puppies leave here Tattooed in their ear for identification (They are registered on a National scheme, the NATIONAL DOG TATTOO REGISTER), so if your dog went missing they are registered to you. We also now Microchip all our puppies, so that they have the best possible chance of being found if lost or stolen. We give you a piece of bedding that the puppy has slept with to take home as a “comfort blanket” and of course Kennel Club registration, pedigree certificate, and lots of advice in our pack, including a long list of “Do’s & Don’ts”!!!!
Some more of the information is below.
We like to feed our dogs the following:
We feed a fresh meat diet available from Nutriment in Camberley, Surrey. The food is available to order online from their website www.nutriment.co
The diet is available mail order from the website, (delivered frozen) and is totally natural . It is fresh human grade meat & bone, mixed with fresh fruit and vegetables. The owners are very knowledgeable and helpful and I work for them too some Saturdays! An un-wanted side effect of feeding dry kibble complete food is often hyper-activity in dogs, as well as skin, gut, ear problems, wind (!) etc. With feeding a natural fresh meat diet you will not get any of these, as well as your dog producing a lot less poo(!!) your dog will benefit from eating a varied diet. I also feed duck necks and marrow bones fed RAW, sardines in oil, eggs, liver, tripe heart etc, with goats milk for puppies as well. You do not have to worry about feeding your dog a balanced diet every day, as we have been brainwashed into thinking! Just give your dog a varied diet over a couple of weeks and if you use Nutriment as a base feed then all will be fine. We don’t feed a dry diet anymore, there are too many problems associated with it.
If you have a puppy from us it will be a “Nutriment” puppy!! http://www.Nutriment.co
Age of puppy
Preferred food; NUTRIMENT RAW
WE ABSOLUTELY DON’T FEED ANY CHICKEN TO OUR DOGS.
YOUR PUPPY WILL BE FED ALL MEATS EXCEPT CHICKEN WHEN YOU COLLECT, INCLUDING JUST TRIPE, A SUPERFOOD FOR DOGS. SO ORDER:
Duck, lamb, beef, turkey, just tripe, sprats, duck necks, small marrow bones, and dried sprats as treats, plus an antler to chew, and a selection of treats.
7 weeks to 11 weeks from 150g x 3 times a day (APPROX) with a drink of Goats milk & egg yolk
12 weeks to 6 months from 300g x 3 times a day
6 months to 12 months approx from 500g x 2.
12 months to 18 months from 1kg per day.
18 months + approx 500/750g 2 x a day
Older Ridgebacks – can average from 500g per day.
I say FROM, because some will need more food per day. You must look at your dogs body to ascertain. Most I still see are overweight.
With young puppies, you should be very careful how much you feed, Most advice is usually too much. RR’s generally need less food than you think!.. Please keep your puppy well covered, but not fat!! A fat puppy does not mean a healthy puppy, and just as in humans, obesity may cause health problems, whilst young these can be growth related problem, and in later life will place undue stress on joints and internal organs including the heart and lungs. If you keep in mind the shape of a greyhound & NOT a Labrador you will be on the right track! Ridgebacks should always look fit & athletic. You may need to feed more meat than advised, as a RR is growing a lot of muscle.
I feel that sticking to a natural diet as possible is the only way forward. Feed as nature intended. After all, we try to feed ourselves that way! If you read Dr Ian Billingshurst’s book “GIVE YOUR DOG A BONE” Then you will actually realize what an awful, un-suitable diet dry dog food is for dogs, it actually poisons them slowly all their life, as they were never evolved to process cereal, added to that the toxins that produces in their bodies is lethal, & I truly believe that that is why so many of our dogs are dying of cancer, the way the food is processed & what is included in it (YOU REALLY DON’T WANT TO KNOW!) is carcinogenic. Please, if you are reading this then have a good think about how you feed your dog. Google; ” problems with dry dog food” & see what comes up!
Another warning; we have been told of problems with a flea/worm/lungworm treatment called ADVOCATE……this has been causing all sorts of skin problems in RRs & Staffys as well, along with a skin problem it is affecting a lot of dogs immune systems, which will affect them for life; Please don’t ever use it. & Don’t use any skin drops if you can help it, PANACUR liquid or paste will kill lungworm in the right doses. RRs don’t usually prove to be a good host to fleas, so are not usually a problem. We don’t even use chemicals to worm our dogs anymore, as the pumpkin seeds in Nutriment are a natural wormer along with DE (Diatomaceous Earth) does the job, as well as clearing the system of toxins.
PLEASE think carefully before applying chemicals to your dogs skin. Wait until a problem comes up first!! (like you would yourself)
As soon as you get a puppy from us it can venture out into the big wide word, gradually, because all our pups are homeopathically vaccinated (with nosodes), we recommend that you start puppy socializing classes as soon as you can (they’re a great way to make ‘doggy’ friends for you, and great for learning how to train your pup – remember they’re not tiny forever, they grow into a large dog that needs correct handling. Your vet may also hold puppy parties that your pup may go to straight away. I strongly recommend that you also engage a dog trainer for one to one help to start as soon as you take your puppy home.
It is also a good idea to take your puppy out in the car as much as possible, so that they get used to travelling. Start with really short journeys, & if he is sick try to do them early morning on an empty tummy for a while. I always travel a puppy in a small crate in the car while they are young.
As Ridgebacks are large dogs, it is important not to over-exercise them at a young age, as their bones are not fully calcified until they are 18 months old. However, once they reach 18 months they will be able to run for hours – which will keep you fit! They need taking out for at LEAST an hours exercise each day, which should include both road walking and free running. (Of course they would prefer more) And if you can manage to take them out beside a bike or horse that is even better! The rest of the time an adult Ridgeback will be happy lazing around either in front of the Aga or out in the sunshine, because as adult dogs they are incredibly lazy and undemanding! (BUT mention W.A.L.K, & wow, transformation!)
When a pup is 10 weeks old we start off with a 10 minute socialising walk twice a day, and we take our pups around the town on a busy Saturday, to the local market, station, supermarket etc, so that they are out & about meeting people & dogs from a young age. You can also visit the local park & have a short walk off lead when they need to use up some energy! You may gradually increase exercise until by 6 months they can tolerate half an hour twice day and by a year old 1 hour.. By 18 months they can have as much as you want to give them! If you combine the formal exercise with mooching about the garden, as well, then that should be enough for a young pup.
Try to get the puppy used to seeing different people, especially children and men. It is also a good idea to take them out for a walk on a lead to get them used to any farm animals if they live near you, and to parks to meet other dogs. Also try to take them to the local market, high street, level crossings and also on/near buses and trains.
Practice recall in your garden and house before letting them off a lead. It is best to practice recall when they are young and vulnerable so they feel insecure; then they won’t want to leave your side when you take them out for a walk! I always let my pups off a lead from 11 weeks old, & never have any trouble getting them to come back. Treats always help with this – if they think you have food, they won’t stray too far! When we are out exercising young RRs we play silent hide & seek, & take different paths and change direction as much as possible to make them keep an eye on us, this develops their instincts to keep you in sight while out.
“THE RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK TODAY” By Stig Carlson. ISBN No; 1 86054 089 9)
The Happy Puppy Handbook by Pippa Mattinson, ISBN 9780091957261 Essential reading, please buy before you collect your puppy!
“Give your dog a bone” by Dr. Ian Billingshurst – a very informative book about feeding a raw meat diet, and why you must NEVER feed dry processed food…ESSENTIAL reading. It will change yours, and your dogs, life!
‘The Practical Dog Listener’ by Jan Fennel – A fantastic book, essential reading for the new Ridgeback owner. AND “THE SEVEN AGES OF YOUR DOG” by Jan Fennel both Available at www.Amazon.co.uk. We INSIST you read these books before taking a puppy home!!
Please note, we no longer recommend Cesar Milan’s books due to the issues raised in the press recently. To view the article yourself, head to: http://yodogcast.tumblr.com/post/55504306960/the-damage-of-the-dog-whisperer-a-scientific-critique << As always, find out the facts and make an informed decision.
Another interesting article to read if you own or are looking to buy a dog is: http://dogsnaturallymagazine.com/veterinary-nosodes/
Essential equipment for your new puppy:
Fold-flat Dog Crates: These are fantastic, and provide somewhere for your puppy to sleep, get away from it all, and also stop them from chewing the furniture when you’re out! They are available from a company called ‘DOG HEALTH” www.doghealth.co.uk 0800 074 4302 or they sell on ebay with a “Buy it now” option. The size you will need is large or X large.
Another address for crates, & dog guards is http://www.barjo.co.uk 0118 989 0204 in Wokingham, Berks. They build fantastic fitted dog guards for the car as well. Providing a Bespoke service that is second to none!
Veterinary Bedding: This easily washable fleece bedding can be used anywhere, including inside of the crates (see above for details). Available in numerous colours/patterns. This bedding is available from dog health as well- see above for contact details.
For further information on caring for your new puppy, please contact us or talk to your vet.
If you do end up having a puppy from us then we will give you a more comprehensive booklet with hints & tips for living with your ridgeback, a diet sheet, as well as the food that your pup has been eating and a piece of bedding. Before you come to collect your puppy we will give you a ‘Shopping List’ of things you need to get before you take your new puppy home with you. We supply 4 weeks free insurance with “Pet Plan” , and your puppy will be identified with a tattoo in its right ear, registered with the “NATIONAL DOG TATTOO REGISTER” Microchipped and of course, your puppy will be Kennel Club registered too.
New Puppy ‘Shopping List’:
We like to help our new owners be prepared for the day when their new arrival goes home with them. We provide all new owners with a Puppy Shopping List, which details essential equipment and items you will need for when your puppy goes home with you.
Our contract offers peace of mind to us and to new owners of our puppies. We love our dogs and our puppies and want to ensure that they go to a good, caring, responsible home. The contract states that we will ALWAYS take back one of our puppies if it is needed and will find a new home for them.
All of their Kennel Club papers are endorsed with “Progeny not eligible for registration” to ensure that our puppies remain as pets, not breeding stock for puppy farmers. They are sold purely as family pets with outstanding temperaments.
Breeding Ridgebacks is not something that is “fun” and “easy” – it requires lifelong dedication, in depth knowledge of genes, bloodlines and breeding, and is VERY hard work (trust us, we should know!). It is stressful, difficult and needs thorough research and a good reputation – otherwise you could easily find you are left with a whole litter of un-sold puppies at 8 weeks old, which isn’t a situation anyone would like to be in.
There are many things that could go wrong during the whole process for both the bitch and puppies (i.e. problems during labour, mastitis afterwards, pyometra, dermoid sinus which needs checking for by a knowledgeable person every week, puppies not feeding and needing to be bottle fed or worse still tube fed, the bitch not producing any milk or being a terrible mother etc etc)…breeding Ridgebacks isn’t always straight forward, and for the safety of the bitch and the puppies knowledge is key! Take it from a family who knows the stresses and sleepless nights only too well…!!!
So, essentially, our endorsements are there to protect our breeding, reputation and future of the puppies we breed. We do not sell with the aim that our puppies are bred from, and if you are interested in buying a puppy with that aim in mind you are not the right person for one of our special puppies!